Choosing wood for custom cabinetry

How the common cabinet woods compare on hardness, colour and ageing, and why sheet goods and veneer deserve a fair hearing.

By Toronto Millworks, updated October 2026

Start with where the piece lives

The right wood depends on the room. A kitchen door is opened thousands of times a year, a vanity lives in humidity, a library sits in sunlight, and a bar front takes boots and stools. Hardness, stability, how the colour changes with light and how the finish wears all matter more than which species is fashionable.

Illustration of white oak, walnut, maple, cherry and ash boards side by side

How the common species compare

SpeciesJanka hardnessColourWith age
Hard mapleabout 1,450 lbfPale creamYellows slightly
White oakabout 1,360 lbfLight brownWarms to amber
White ashabout 1,320 lbfPale, oak-like grainYellows slightly
Black walnutabout 1,010 lbfRich brownCan lighten in sun
Black cherryabout 950 lbfPinkish brownDarkens markedly
Yellow poplarabout 540 lbfCream with green streaksUsed under paint

Janka hardness is the force needed to press a steel ball halfway into the wood. Higher numbers resist dents better, though a good finish matters as much as the timber underneath.

Shop drawing of a built-in wall: a fireplace with mantel and surround, flanked by bookcases over cabinets, with crown moulding at the ceiling.
Shop drawing of a built-in wall: a fireplace with mantel and surround, flanked by bookcases over cabinets, with crown moulding at the ceiling.

White oak

The most requested cabinet wood of recent years, and for good reason. It is hard, stable and, unlike red oak, has closed pores that resist water. Rift sawn boards give a straight, quiet grain; quarter sawn boards show the ray fleck that Arts and Crafts furniture made famous. It takes clear finishes and stains well.

Walnut

Dark, warm and naturally rich, walnut rarely needs stain. It is softer than oak, so it suits doors, panels and furniture pieces more than a heavily used work surface. Veneered slab doors make the most of its figure across a run of cabinets.

Slatted feature wall in a walnut finish, with a shadow reveal between each slat

Maple and cherry

Hard maple is one of the most durable cabinet woods and one of the best for painted doors, because its fine grain gives a smooth surface. It can blotch under stain, so stained maple needs care. Cherry is fine grained and traditional, and it darkens markedly over its first years, which many people choose it for.

Ash and poplar

Ash looks much like oak in a paler tone. In Ontario its supply has been affected by the emerald ash borer, so availability is worth checking early. Poplar is a soft, inexpensive hardwood that machines cleanly and is the standard for painted frames and trim.

Plywood, MDF and particleboard

  • Plywood: strong, relatively light and good at holding screws. A common choice for cabinet boxes and shelves.
  • MDF: flat, stable and smooth, the best substrate for paint and for veneer, but heavy and weak at holding screws in its edges.
  • Particleboard: economical and stable when faced with melamine or veneer, widely used for cabinet boxes.

Veneer is not a compromise

Veneer is real wood sliced thin and laid on a stable core. Because the core does not move with the seasons, veneered panels stay flat where wide solid boards would cup. Veneer also allows sequence and book matching, so a whole wall of doors can show continuous grain. Most fine furniture and high end cabinetry relies on it.

Quick
answers

Straight answers on cost, lead time and how a job actually runs. If something is not covered here, ask and we will answer it the same way.

Every question we get asked

What is the most durable wood for kitchen cabinets?

Hard maple and white oak are both very hard and stable. The finish matters as much as the species, so choose them together.

Is white oak better than red oak?

For cabinetry, usually. White oak has closed pores that resist water and a quieter grain when rift sawn. Red oak is porous and has a pinker tone.

Why do cherry cabinets get darker?

Cherry reacts to light and oxygen and deepens in colour over its first years. It is a natural patina, not a defect.

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